I have a confession.
I haven't knitted in about 3 weeks. (gasp).
Been sewing....will return to life with yarn shortly. :)
Thursday, 15 September 2011
Tuesday, 12 July 2011
Proof in the design
Just wanted to share some gorgeous pictures my SIL, Lindsay, took of one of my creations...proof that I am still designing, I just need to get the lead out and write some patterns up! I have a few hats and tops to share, but I need to get working on them...
This was my replication of an Anthropologie top I found last fall. Mock cables line the front making the chest area give as needed without having to adjust for boob size. Love that. Back panel is crocheted and all edges are crocheted for finishing along with the crocheted detailing at the neckline. The strap is double knit for a smooth and sturdy tube.
This was my replication of an Anthropologie top I found last fall. Mock cables line the front making the chest area give as needed without having to adjust for boob size. Love that. Back panel is crocheted and all edges are crocheted for finishing along with the crocheted detailing at the neckline. The strap is double knit for a smooth and sturdy tube.
Friday, 10 June 2011
The Shower Poof
I LOVE shower poofs. After years of using one, showering just isn't the same when I don't have one. That being said, I HATE buying them and then tossing them away. And I don't want to any more. I just imagine all the many many many "poofs" in the landfills that I've contributed to, and I say, NO MORE! Especially when I can make one, right?
This is my first attempt at one, and it's super duper (yes I said it) simple. I can't wait to make more, ones with a little more fluff, but for the moment, this one more than lives up to it's potential.
The Shower Puff
Gauge: Not important this time, folks...it's a shower poof. Be happy in a no gauge pattern.
The Poof:
Row 11-14: Switch to size 8 needles. Knit
Row 15-16: Switch to size 10 1/2 needles. Knit
Bind off loosely.
Finishing
With length of yarn and a tapestry needle, starting at one end and on the CO edge, weave yarn through approx. 5 sts and then through the first st again, creating a circle. repeat this step again to create a firm circle. next, twist the next 7-8 sts of CO edge the opposite direction and stitch down in a manner similar to the first 5 sts. Continue in this manner (remembering to switch directions after each segment) for the remaining length of ruffle until you have all of the ruffle gathered and stitched together forming a ball-like flower. Run needle and yarn back and forth through center of ball 3 times, tie off and weave in ends.
You can add a length of i-cord to the center of the ball to hang ball in shower. I did a 3 stitch I-cord for about 7 inches, folded in half and attached.
Have fun!
This is my first attempt at one, and it's super duper (yes I said it) simple. I can't wait to make more, ones with a little more fluff, but for the moment, this one more than lives up to it's potential.
The Shower Puff
Needle: Straight sizes 6, 8, and 10 1/2 (4, 5, 6.5 mm)
Yarn: I used Schachenmayr nomotta Crazy Cotton but as it's discontinued, any 100% cotton will do...this is sportweight, so keep in mind heavier weight means bigger needles, means bigger poof.
Gauge: Not important this time, folks...it's a shower poof. Be happy in a no gauge pattern.
The Poof:
With size 6 needles, CO 25 st.
Working entirely in Garter stitch (knit every row), knit as follows...
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Kfbf (Knit in front, then back, then front again of same st) in all stitches. (75 stitches)
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: Kfbf (225 stitches)
Row 5-10: Knit
Working entirely in Garter stitch (knit every row), knit as follows...
Row 1: Knit
Row 2: Kfbf (Knit in front, then back, then front again of same st) in all stitches. (75 stitches)
Row 3: Knit
Row 4: Kfbf (225 stitches)
Row 5-10: Knit
Row 11-14: Switch to size 8 needles. Knit
Row 15-16: Switch to size 10 1/2 needles. Knit
Bind off loosely.
Finishing
With length of yarn and a tapestry needle, starting at one end and on the CO edge, weave yarn through approx. 5 sts and then through the first st again, creating a circle. repeat this step again to create a firm circle. next, twist the next 7-8 sts of CO edge the opposite direction and stitch down in a manner similar to the first 5 sts. Continue in this manner (remembering to switch directions after each segment) for the remaining length of ruffle until you have all of the ruffle gathered and stitched together forming a ball-like flower. Run needle and yarn back and forth through center of ball 3 times, tie off and weave in ends.
You can add a length of i-cord to the center of the ball to hang ball in shower. I did a 3 stitch I-cord for about 7 inches, folded in half and attached.
Have fun!
Thursday, 9 June 2011
The Twiggy
Okay, so I've had several requests for the pattern for Hazel's top. I can't take full credit for this pattern as it was inspired by the Buttony sweater I made for myself. I decided to call it Twiggy as it reminds me of a jacket that would have been trendy in the 60's...and what's 60's trendier than Twiggy?
Twiggy
Yarn: Bulky weight (I used Baby Bee Dreamy Baby Chenille in Ladybug) about 205 yds
Needles: US size 10 1/2 (6.5 mm) circular, and DPNs
Gauge: 12sts/16 rows = 4 inches (10cm)
Size: 18/24 mos
*modifications to pattern are in red
Notes: The top half is knit flat then the sts are joined and knit in the round. The sleeves are knit in the round on DPNs. After the garment is knit, there should be no sewing involved other than adding the buttons and weaving in loose ends.
In all areas that it tells you to M1 (make 1) pick up the bar between the last st on the right needle and the first st on the left needle from the front with the left needle and knit through the back. This twists the st and prevents a hole from being created.
CO 48 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, K5, work 2x2 ribbing across to last 6 sts, K6
Row 2: Sl 1, K5, work ribbing as established to last 6 sts, K6
Row 3: Work as row 1 to last 6 sts, K3, yo, K2tog, K1
Row 4: Work as row 2
Rows 5-6: Work rows 1 and 2 once more
Row 7: Sl 1, K5, pm, K5, pm, K18, pm, K5, pm, K across
Row 8: Sl 1, K5, P across to last 6sts, K6
Row 9 and all odd rows: Sl 1, (K to 1 st before marker, M1, K2, M1) four times, Knit across to end
Row 10 and all even rows: Sl 1, K5, P across to last 6 sts, K6
Repeat rows 9 and 10 until 23 sts lie between the shoulder markers (the pm, K5, pm areas should now be pm, K23, pm) ending with row 10 (WS). Add 2 more button holes (K3, yo, K2tog, K1 as in row 3) approx 8 rows apart. This is more of an eyed button hole as I wanted to use large buttons. You could add more holes closer together if you wish, just make sure there is plenty of rows between to create a firm hole.
*note: If you're knitting on straights at this point, it would be the time to switch to circulars as you will begin to knit in the round after the next row. Make sure when you knit across the gap created by the set aside sts that you pull the gap closed to avoid any ladder effects or needs to stitch up the underarms. The saved sts will fold in half and create the armholes.
Next row: Sl 1, K to marker, remove marker, slip stitches to next marker on scrap yarn, remove marker, K to marker, remove marker, slip stitches to next marker on 2nd scrap yarn, remove marker, K across.
Round 1 and 2: Pm to indicate beginning of round, join in the round, and Knit even.
Round 3: (K4, kfb) around to last 4 sts, K3, kfb
Round 4-8: Knit even
Round 9: (K4, kfb) around
Next rounds: Knit even
Continue to Knit even until the piece measures the length desired (I knitted until piece measured 8 1/2 inches from the underarm).
Next round: Purl even
Next round: Knit even
Next round: Purl even
Bind off.
Sleeves:
Note: Sleeves are started on 4 DPNs to make picking up the 4 underarm sts simpler. After the first round is knit and the 4 sts are picked up, you will knit the remainder of the sleeve on 3 needles.
To transfer the held stitches to DPNs, start with the far left st and work to the far right st as follows: Needle #1-3sts, Needle #2-9 sts, Needle #3- 9 sts, Needle #4 - 2sts.
When picking up stitches on the underarm, look at the underarm. It is V in shape. After working the 2 sts on Needle #4, pick up and knit 2 sts down the side of the V nearest to Needle #4, then with Needle #1, pick up 2 sts up the side of the V nearest to Needle #1 and knit them and the held sts on Needle #1 onto the DPN used to knit Needle #4 and the first 2 picked up sts. This results in 9 sts on each of 3 DPNs, the 4th will no longer be needed.
Begin knitting on Needle #3, pm to mark beginning of round.
Needle 3: knit
Needle 4: Knit 2, pick up and knit 4 sts from the underarm, knit across 3sts on needle 1.
Needle 2: Knit
You should now have 9 sts on 3 needles.
Knit even for 2 more rounds.
Next round: K3, work 2x2 ribbing around.
Work this round 2 more times.
Bind off.
Work same for 2nd sleeve.
Attach buttons and weave in ends.
ENJOY!
P.S. Let me know if you run into any problems with this pattern!
Twiggy
Yarn: Bulky weight (I used Baby Bee Dreamy Baby Chenille in Ladybug) about 205 yds
Needles: US size 10 1/2 (6.5 mm) circular, and DPNs
Gauge: 12sts/16 rows = 4 inches (10cm)
Size: 18/24 mos
*modifications to pattern are in red
Notes: The top half is knit flat then the sts are joined and knit in the round. The sleeves are knit in the round on DPNs. After the garment is knit, there should be no sewing involved other than adding the buttons and weaving in loose ends.
In all areas that it tells you to M1 (make 1) pick up the bar between the last st on the right needle and the first st on the left needle from the front with the left needle and knit through the back. This twists the st and prevents a hole from being created.
CO 48 sts.
Row 1: Sl 1, K5, work 2x2 ribbing across to last 6 sts, K6
Row 2: Sl 1, K5, work ribbing as established to last 6 sts, K6
Row 3: Work as row 1 to last 6 sts, K3, yo, K2tog, K1
Row 4: Work as row 2
Rows 5-6: Work rows 1 and 2 once more
Row 7: Sl 1, K5, pm, K5, pm, K18, pm, K5, pm, K across
Row 8: Sl 1, K5, P across to last 6sts, K6
Row 9 and all odd rows: Sl 1, (K to 1 st before marker, M1, K2, M1) four times, Knit across to end
Row 10 and all even rows: Sl 1, K5, P across to last 6 sts, K6
Repeat rows 9 and 10 until 23 sts lie between the shoulder markers (the pm, K5, pm areas should now be pm, K23, pm) ending with row 10 (WS). Add 2 more button holes (K3, yo, K2tog, K1 as in row 3) approx 8 rows apart. This is more of an eyed button hole as I wanted to use large buttons. You could add more holes closer together if you wish, just make sure there is plenty of rows between to create a firm hole.
*note: If you're knitting on straights at this point, it would be the time to switch to circulars as you will begin to knit in the round after the next row. Make sure when you knit across the gap created by the set aside sts that you pull the gap closed to avoid any ladder effects or needs to stitch up the underarms. The saved sts will fold in half and create the armholes.
Next row: Sl 1, K to marker, remove marker, slip stitches to next marker on scrap yarn, remove marker, K to marker, remove marker, slip stitches to next marker on 2nd scrap yarn, remove marker, K across.
Round 1 and 2: Pm to indicate beginning of round, join in the round, and Knit even.
Round 3: (K4, kfb) around to last 4 sts, K3, kfb
Round 4-8: Knit even
Round 9: (K4, kfb) around
Next rounds: Knit even
Continue to Knit even until the piece measures the length desired (I knitted until piece measured 8 1/2 inches from the underarm).
Next round: Purl even
Next round: Knit even
Next round: Purl even
Bind off.
Sleeves:
Note: Sleeves are started on 4 DPNs to make picking up the 4 underarm sts simpler. After the first round is knit and the 4 sts are picked up, you will knit the remainder of the sleeve on 3 needles.
To transfer the held stitches to DPNs, start with the far left st and work to the far right st as follows: Needle #1-3sts, Needle #2-9 sts, Needle #3- 9 sts, Needle #4 - 2sts.
When picking up stitches on the underarm, look at the underarm. It is V in shape. After working the 2 sts on Needle #4, pick up and knit 2 sts down the side of the V nearest to Needle #4, then with Needle #1, pick up 2 sts up the side of the V nearest to Needle #1 and knit them and the held sts on Needle #1 onto the DPN used to knit Needle #4 and the first 2 picked up sts. This results in 9 sts on each of 3 DPNs, the 4th will no longer be needed.
Begin knitting on Needle #3, pm to mark beginning of round.
Needle 3: knit
Needle 4: Knit 2, pick up and knit 4 sts from the underarm, knit across 3sts on needle 1.
Needle 2: Knit
You should now have 9 sts on 3 needles.
Knit even for 2 more rounds.
Next round: K3, work 2x2 ribbing around.
Work this round 2 more times.
Bind off.
Work same for 2nd sleeve.
Attach buttons and weave in ends.
ENJOY!
P.S. Let me know if you run into any problems with this pattern!
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